Ketchup

In a large dry heavy pot over medium heat, toast coriander, cumin and mustard seeds until they are several shades darker and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Use a spice grinder, coffee grinder or mortar and pestle to finely grind seeds with bay leaves.
Heat oil in the same pot over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned, about 10 minutes. Add remaining ingredients along with toasted, ground spices, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are very tender, about 45 minutes.
Transfer cooked tomato mixture to a blender or food processor, in batches if necessary, and purée. Return purée to pot, bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until it reaches a paste-like consistency, 11/2 -2 hours. Toward the end of cooking, stir ketchup more frequently to prevent scorching.

2 teaspoons coriander seed
1 teaspoon cumin seed
1 teaspoon mustard seed
3 bay leaves
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
5 pounds ripe tomatoes
1 cup red wine vinegar
⅓ cup dark brown sugar
1 head roasted garlic
¼ cup capers with their brine
¼ cup hot sauce
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons paprika
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon allspice