Gail South

Dubrovnik (Latin: Ragusa), "Pearl of the Adriatic", is a stunningly intact walled seaport on the Adriatic Sea coast of the extreme south of Croatia. Although its population barely exceeds 40,000, it's one of the most prominent tourist resorts of the Mediterranean and has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.

Dubrovnik was built on maritime trade. In the Middle Ages it became the only city-state in the Adriatic to rival Venice. Between the 14th century and 1808, Dubrovnik ruled itself as a free state, although it was a vassal from 1382 to 1804 of the Ottoman Empire and paid an annual tribute to its sultan.  Supported by its wealth and skilled diplomacy, the city achieved a remarkable level of development during the 15th and 16th centuries. Furthermore, Dubrovnik was one of the centers of the development of the Croatian language and literature, home to many notable poets, playwrights, painters, mathematicians, physicists and other scholars.

The beginning of modern tourism is associated with the construction of the Hotel Imperial in Dubrovnik in 1897. Although it was demilitarized in the 1970's to protect it from war, in 1991, after the breakup of Yugoslavia, it was besieged by the Yugoslav, Serb and Montenegrin soldiers gathered in the Yugoslav People's Army (JNA) for seven months and suffered significant damage from shelling. Almost all of the damage has been repaired; however, if you look closely around the old town, mortar damage in the cobblestone streets and bullet marks in the stone houses are visible. This map shows the hits on the city.

Horribly long 9 hour 20 minute flight to JFK, where it was RAINING. Jerry didn’t bring his phone, and I didn’t have Herb’s number. Finally made the connection and got home (after stopping at CVS for cold medicine) about 6:30. Abner was glad to see us, and Sue was sorry to leave him.

Back at the boat for our final dinner: the tenderest steak in the world. The rain stopped. There was a glorious rainbow. Went to town and bought some olive oil for Sue (which was confiscated at the airport). The sunset got progressively more wondrous.

Saturday, Oct. 8: Boris had made us breakfast, and Helena got up to make sure all was well when we left at 4:30 am for the Dubrovnik airport, about 40 minutes away. 

Dubrovnik is steeped in stunning architecture and sculptural detail, and boasts spectacular churches, monasteries, museums, and fountains. Much of the old town center dates from the rebuilding that took place after the earthquake of 1667. The city is completely pedestrianized and small enough to get around on foot, although some of the streets are a little steep.

The rain let up so we could walk its remarkable walls, which protected the city from attack for many centuries, explore the grand streets and elaborate monuments of its historic center and pay a visit to the maritime museum.

A symbol of Dubrovnik, the walls offer splendid views from the guards’ walkway. They were built in the 10th c, with modifications in the 11th c. They were then reinforced at various times by great architects. They are 6363 feet long and reach a height of 82 feet in some parts. Those facing inland are up to 20 feet wide and strengthened by an outer wall with ten semicircular bastions. Other towers and the fort of St. John defend the part facing the Adriatic and the port. Completing the defenses to the east and west of the city are two fortresses: the Revelin and the fortress of Lovrijenac.

Elusive Dalmatian Pelican

Stopped for coffee in a plaza under a huge umbrella just as it started to pour again. Ate the delicious sandwiches Boris had packed for us. After lunch the rain slowed down, and we went to visit the Rector’s Palace. For centuries this was the seat of government of the Dubrovnik Republic. The rector lived here during his period of office, which was limited to one month. Today it houses the Cultural Historical Museum. There were lots of warnings about the marble floors and stairs.

Medieval Dish

Quarantine Building: arrivals to Dubrovnik had to stay here for 40 days before being allowed to enter the city.

Friday, Oct. 7: 

Our bus arrived at 9:30 for a 45 minute ride in the pouring rain to Dubrovnik, once better known as Ragusa, Venice’s chief rival in the Adriatic. St. Blaise is the protector of the city, which he holds in his hands in the many statues scattered around.

We were very groggy, and I had caught Jerry’s cold. Arrived in Zagreb at about 8. Hustled through to find our flight to Vienna. Arrived in Vienna about 9:30 am and left at 10:45 am.